The following day it was again raining hard and I took a minor road via Stronmilchan to Loch Awe. Stopping near Bridge of Awe for more tea and flapjack eventually arrived in Taynuilt and the inn there. Great meal, book and rioja! The final day to Oban was a delight.
The rain eased off to allow patches of blue cloud and eventually watery sunshine and a tiny deserted ribbon of tarmac led past sheep and highland cattle with mountain views at every turn. The Calmac ferries drifted in and out to Mull of Kintyre but that would have to wait for another timeβ¦. Still walking in the "wrong" direction, I left Stirling one afternoon in December Took time to get going - it was a cold afternoon and the incongruity of a genuine churreria with Spanish doughnuts and proper hot chocolate was too good to ignore - but after a couple of hours arrived in Bridge of Allan where a small cafe provided bacon roll and soup - perfect.
From there tiny roads led to Doune home to the Deanston whisky distillery and Doune Castle, which has been used as a filming location for Outlander, Game of Thrones and Monty Python and the Holy Grail. In a nice touch, Terry Jones does the recorded voiceover for castle tours. No sign of the killer rabbits though Walked into the Red Lion - where conversation temporarily ceased - and decided to have dinner at the hotel. The following day brought some winds but no snow and, using the head torch for the first half hour, swung onto minor roads.
The sun was rising behind me, and I kept spotting the small white rumps of deer disappearing into the trees to the side of the road. Ignoring the temptations of the unexpected gin distillery at Drumbane, I arrived in Callender for lunch and enjoyed half an hour thawing out at the Deli Ecosse run by two friendly ladies who in my mind will always be the Callender girls The following morning was snowy, -1 degree and no heating in the restaurant - the only time I've eaten breakfast indoors in coat, woolly hat and gloves.
The path was fantastic - still following the old railway line, over viaducts and through virgin snow that had fallen overnight. Left the trail at Lochearnhead for a Tunnocks and a cup of tea and then met no-one apart from some beaters trying to raise some grouse for the disappointed "Guns" in the valley below.
